It was Iconic Designer Week in episode nine of The Great British Sewing Bee and there were just four sewers left going into the semi finals.

The Pattern Challenge featured a garment unlike any we’ve seen in the sewing room so far, a draped dress inspired by Cristóbal Balenciaga, who, like Esme, was very into his pattern cutting. A truly ground-breaking designer, he has been credited with revolutionising fashion silhouettes throughout the 50s and 60s.

The time limit was four and a quarter hours but the biggest challenge was following the complex instructions and cutting the fabric accurately. Suzy demonstrated the importance of ironing your paper pattern to ensure it lies flat on your fabric - that’s a great tip for beginners. Perfect prep makes things much easier!

All the sewists chose crepe fabrics to create a striking dress that was fitted at the front with a hidden, internal belt. The back was loose with gathers used to add drape. The sleeves were part of the front piece and used a diamond-shaped underarm gusset to allow for freedom of movement. Unusual inserts created the effect of darts.

Pascha compared her partly made dress to a medical apron, and it was certainly one of those garments that looks very different in its work-in-progress stage! When Aisla claimed it was a hard challenge, Patrick’s non-comforting reply was, “it’s supposed to be hard.” Enough said, Mr Grant!

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After Balenciaga’s moment in the spotlight, it was Jean Paul Gaultier who inspired the transformation challenge. He turned all sorts of objects into outfits for the catwalk, including neck ties. The sewers could use anything from the haberdashery but no extra fabric. Combining colour and print was really important, but the judges wanted to still recognise that it was made from ties.

Ailsa, Pascha and Suzy went for draping on the mannequin, while Luke stitched the ties together to create their own fabric.

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We welcomed back the models for the Made to Measure. The task: to create an evening outfit inspired by Coco Chanel in five hours. Esme laid out her judging criteria: “They have to make something well (and finish it) and that has impact.”

Suzy opted for monochrome with a boned bodice in faux silk. The design included contrasting white-on-black top stitching which made a statement but was high-risk considering its visibility. Luke opted for a heavy tweed boucle which, while iconic, is not easy to sew. They also discovered that sewing on a chain with the machine is even harder!

Pascha went for a black bias cut, satin gown with ruffles and matte sleeves. Ailsa was inspired by a more modern look that broke across the gender divide, and featured a triple-tiered skirt.

Just getting this far is a huge achievement for all four sewers, but who would make it to the final! We’re not going to say. Catch up on iplayer to find out for yourself.

Images: BBC/Love Productions
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If you’ve been inspired by Coco Chanel, check out Amanda Walker’s smart boucle Chanel jacket sewing pattern. Buy and download today at sewmag.co.uk/shop

Need something for later in the year? Amanda Walker’s Chanel-style boucle coat sewing pattern is available to buy at sewmag.co.uk/shop