Sewing Pattern

Ellen Flared Button Jeans

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Step out in navy stretch denim for posh jeans in a nautical style, with comfort as a bonus. You’ll discover an ingenious way from Posner and Posner to create a neatly finished front facing ready for buttons and holes through the trouser front, plus roomy pockets hidden at the side seams.

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Essentials
  1. Fabric, 2.5m (140cm)
  2. Fusible interfacing, 50cm
  3. Six buttons, 20mm
Sizes
  1. 8-24
Cutting guide
  1. Front: cut one pair
  2. Back: cut one pair
  3. Front flap facing: cut one pair in fabric and one pair in interfacing
  4. Front waistband: cut two on the fold in fabric and one on the fold in interfacing
  5. Pockets: cut four
  6. Waistband: cut two on the fold in fabric and one on the fold in interfacing
  7. 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

    1 Download the template, then print out and follow the cutting guide. On the back pieces, with right sides together, match the notches, then pin and sew the centre back seam. Tidy and press to one side. Pin each dart in place and stitch from the waist edge to the point. Press towards the side seam. For the front pieces, put right sides together and match the notches, then pin and sew the centre-front seam. Neaten, then press to one side.

    2 Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the front flap facings. Position the facings right sides together on the front trouser, aligning the V-shaped stitching lines with the narrower side to the centre front. Mark the V-shaped stitching lines with a fabric pen and ruler for accuracy. Sew the facing flap to the front trouser along these lines, from the waist edge to the point; leave the needle in the fabric at the point, pivot and stitch up the other side.

    3 Cut down the lines to as near to the point as you can to create the front opening section. Trim excess fabric from the wide end of the V, then turn the facing flap to the wrong side of the front, ensuring the fabric at the point lies flat. On the buttonhole sides of the front facing flap, neaten the raw edge and understitch to fold neatly to the wrong side along the seam edge, then press.

    4 The other parts of the facing flap are for the buttons and will go underneath the buttonholes on each side. Neaten the edges, then fold the flap section over 4cm on each side and press. Sew in place close to the first seam. Overlap the buttonhole sides of the facings with the button sides, then stitch across the bottom of the facing, through all the layers. Neaten the edge and press.

    5 Apply interfacing to one of the front waistband pieces. With right sides together, sew across the top of the waistband with a 6mm seam, then across each end with a 1.5cm seam. Turn to the right side and press the edges. Matching the edges and notches, right sides together, stitch one side of the waistband to the front trouser so the edge of the waistband is level with the edge of the buttonhole side on the front flap. Press the seam.

    6 Neaten the edge of the other side of the waistband and sew in place. Fold under the edge of the waistband and hand-stitch or overlock the edge, then machine-stitch close to the waistband seam. Making sure that opposing buttonholes are level throughout, add one in the centre at each side on the front opening waistband. On each side of the front opening, create a buttonhole 3.5cm up from the bottom, and position the last one centrally between the other two.

    7 With right sides together, position each of the four pocket pieces to the side edges of the front and back trouser, ensuring the top of the pocket is level with the waist edge. Sew in place with a 6mm seam, along the side seam to the end of the pocket from the waist edge. Press each pocket away from the trouser.

    8 Pin the back and front trousers together at the side seam and around the pocket edge, then stitch together from 3cm above the bottom of the pocket to the hem ofthe trouser. Sew a 6mm seam around the pocket bag, starting at the top near the waist edge and finishing at the side seam. Stitch down the side seam from the waist edge to 5cm below the top of the pocket.

    9 Clip the pocket side seam at the top and bottom to position it towards the front. Neaten all edges and press the seams. Press each pocket towards the front, then tack the waist edge in position to secure with the waistband. Apply fusible interfacing to one of the waistband pieces. With right sides together, sew the two waistband pieces together with a 6mm seam along the top and 1.5cm along each end. Turn right side out and press the top and end seams.

    10 With right sides together, pin and stitch one side of the waistband at the waist of the trousers, keeping the ends level with the buttonband sides of the flap. Check that the top of the front waistband is level with the waistband section you’ve just done.

    11 Overlock the raw edge of the other side of the waistband and machine in place, or turn under and hand-stitch. With right sides together, and matching the centre-back and centre-front seams, pin and sew the inner leg seam. Neaten and press. Try on the trousers and measure the hem, then turn up, stitch and press. Secure the buttons to match the buttonholes.

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