1 Download the templates from sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. Pin and stitch the darts in the front and back bodice, and the front and back bodice lining. Press the waist darts towards the side edge and the bust darts down. With right sides together and matching the centre notches, sew the front waistband to the front bodice, and the back waistband to the back bodice. Repeat for the lining pieces, then press the seams down.

2 To make the pleats in the front and back skirt, fold along the marked lines, right sides facing; each one should be folded facing towards the side of the skirt, with seven pleats at each side of the centre. Stitch close to the top of the pleats at the waist edge to secure in place, then press the pleats down for the first 5cm. With right sides together, pin the skirts to the bottom of the front and back waistband, matching the centres with the side edges level, then sew in place and press the seam up towards the bodice.

3 Place the top of the zip at the marked notch on the left side seam, then pin and stitch one side of the zip. Pin the other side of the zip in place, making sure the seams of the waistband are level, then sew. Stitch the side seam above the zip, towards the armhole, and neaten the edges. Sew the side seam below the zip and neaten the edges. Secure the bottom of the zip to the seam allowance with a few hand stitches.

4 Pin and sew the other side seam, matching the notches and making sure the seams of the waistband are level. Neaten the edges and press the seam. Pin the back and front at the shoulder seam, matching the notches and sew together. Press the seam open. Pin the front and back bodice lining, right sides together at the shoulder, and stitch. Press the seam open.

5 Pin the left side seam of the the zip, then stitch. Press the seam open, then press in the seam allowance down the rest of the side seam. Pin and stitch the right side seam, then press the seam open. Turn up 1.5cm at the bottom of the lining and press. Place the bodice lining in position, wrong sides together, inside the dress bodice. Line up the shoulder seams, centre-front and back notches. Stitch the lining in position around the neck, close to the edge and around the edge of the armholes. the zip, then stitch. Press the seam open, then press in the seam allowance down the rest of the side seam.

6 Pin and stitch the right side seam, then press the seam open. Turn up 1.5cm at the bottom of the lining and press. Place the bodice lining in position, wrong sides together, inside the dress bodice. Line up the shoulder seams, centre-front and back notches. Stitch the lining in position around the neck, close to the edge and around the edge of the armholes.

7 With right sides together, pin the ends of the collar together, then stitch and trim the seam. Press the centre seam open and turn the collar to the right side. Press the collar edge on the line of the seam. Fold the collar tab in half lengthways and stitch a 6mm seam. Turn the tab to the right side and press the seam in the centre of the tab. Place one end of the tab right sides together, at the centre of the front neckline, then stitch in place close to the edge. The other end of the tab will be secured in place later.

8 Pin the collar in position around the neckline, matching the centre-back notches; the front seam of the collar should be at the centre front, level with the tab. Stitch the collar in place. Fold the other end of the tab over the centre of the collar and secure in place. You can add little pleats or gathers to each side of the collar under the tab if you wish, or simply tighten the tab.

9 Apply fusible interfacing to the back and front neck facing pieces. Join the facings at the shoulder seam, then trim and press the shoulder seam open. Neaten the edge of the facing. Position the facing around the neckline, over the collar and the collar tab; you may need to trim the end of the collar tab if there is excess fabric. Stitch around the neckline through all of the layers. Clip around the curved edge of the seam and trim, then under-stitch. Press the facing to the inside of the dress, with the collar folded flat on the edge of the neckline. Slip-stitch the facing in place on the inside of the dress.

10 Pin and stitch the seam of each of the sleeves, then neaten the edge and press it towards the back on each sleeve. Insert the sleeve, matching the underarm seam and notches. Sew and neaten the edge of the seam, then press towards the sleeve. Turn up the sleeve hem to the desired length and stitch, then repeat for skirt at the desired length and sew.