Drafting the pattern

1 Measure your hips and divide this measurement by four. Add 2cm ease and a 1cm seam allowance to this. Using the diagram as a guide, plot this measurement horizontally from the top left corner.

2 Decide the length you’d like your skirt to be, then add a 3cm seam allowance. Plot this vertically from the same top corner. Draw a quarter of your hip measurement x 1.5, plus 1cm seam allowance, parallel to the top line from the lowest point of the length measurement.

3 Measure 2cm down from the top left corner of the draft, and mark with a pencil. Then draw a curved line from this point to the furthest end of the top waistline. Measure 2cm up from the bottom hem line on the right-hand side and mark the point. Draw a curved line from here to the bottom left corner.

4 For the lining, repeat the process, halving the length measurement and adding 3cm seam allowance. Cut out your pattern pieces and use to cut two outer skirts from sheer fabric on the fold, and two from lining on the fold.

5 To create the waistband casing, measure 5.5cm down from the top of your outer skirt pattern piece on both edges and follow the curve to draw in a bottom line. Cut two on the fold.

Sew your skirt

1 Pin the skirt outer panels together, right sides facing. Stitch the left side together with a 1cm seam allowance. On the right, starting at the top, stitch the panels together, stopping 43cm from the bottom, where the side split will start. Backstitch to secure, then continue, using tacking stitches. Neaten the raw edges and press the seams open. Turn the skirt out. Edge stitch 5mm around the side split. Carefully remove the tacking stitches.

2 Pin and stitch the lining panels, right sides together, using a 1cm seam allowance, and neaten the raw edges. Press the seams open. Insert the lining into the outer skirt, right side of the lining against the wrong side of the skirt. Match the side seams and pin to secure. Tack the two together at the waist.

3 Place the waistband panels right sides together. Pin and stitch each short end, using a 1cm seam allowance and neaten the raw edges. Press the seams open. Neaten the lower edge of the waistband.

4 Matching the side seams, insert the skirt and lining into the waistband and pin right sides together. Stitch using a 1cm seam allowance and zigzag or overlock the raw edges together.

5 Fold the waistband to the inside of the skirt, press, then pin to the lining. Edge stitch around the top of the waistband. Starting at one of the side seams, 3.5cm down from the top edge, topstitch the lower edge of the waistline, leaving an opening of about 5cm.

6 Cut 2.5cm wide elastic to your waist measurement, plus 2cm. Using a safety pin, thread it through the channel, making sure you hold onto the end. Overlap the ends, and sew several rows of zigzag stitching to secure. Complete the topstitching, being careful to avoid stitching through the elastic.

7 Turn the outer skirt hem under by 1cm, and press. Turn up a further 1cm and press again. Pin and stitch in place, using an 8mm seam allowance. Press then repeat for the lining.