1 To make the gusset, cut two 7cm x 48cm rectangles from both canvas and lining fabric. Lay one lining strip horizontally, face up on a flat surface. Place a zip face up on top, aligning the bottom edges of the zip and fabric. Place one canvas strip face down on top of the zip, again lining up both bottom edges.

2 Use a zipper foot to machine stitch the three layers together, 5mm from the teeth of the zip. Unfold the layers so the fabrics lay right sides out and the zip sits along the top. Press and topstitch 2mm from the seam. Sew the two other print and lining strips to the other edge of the fastening in the same way. Zig zag stitch the long outer edges on each side.

3 Cut two 6cm x 10cm pieces of canvas print. Fold them in half widthways, right sides together, and sew down both sides. Turn out and pin the raw edges to each end of the zip so the fabric forms a tab. Stitch along the raw edges to secure.

4 For the side panels, cut two 12cm x 35cm rectangles from both canvas and lining fabrics. Sandwich one short end of the zip gusset between an inner and outer piece, right sides facing, in the same way as the zip was positioned. Make two small pleats in the end of the zip gusset to

5 While the zip is sandwiched between the outer and lining pieces, pin the long sides together and stitch 5mm from the edges, taking care not to catch the gusset in the seam. Pull the zip gusset out from the tube to turn it out. Repeat this for the other end of the fastening.

6 Cut two 10cm x 45cm strips of canvas for the handles. Fold lengthways, right sides together and sew down the long edge. Turn out to create two tubes. Cut several 100cm lengths of thick yarn. Tie a piece of twine around the middle of the bundle, fold it in half and thread a large safety pin through the tie. Use this to thread the cords through the middle of a strap to pad. Repeat for the other handle.

7 Topstitch the ends in place at either end of the tube and trim away any excess. Tack the handles in place on either side of the zip gusset, matching up the raw edges and leaving a 10cm gap in between each end.

8 Cut a 24cm x 35cm section from both canvas and lining for the front pocket. Fold a 4cm x 35cm leather strip in half lengthways, right side out. Position the folded leather between the fabrics, in the same way as the zip gusset, and stitch slowly down the edge, using a heavier weight needle. Repeat for the other side, before turning the panel out. Topstitch the side seams, 2mm from the join. Thread piping cord through the tubes, leaving 2cm excess at each end.

9 Cut two 35cm x 48cm pieces from canvas and lining. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each canvas piece and trim to size. Place the leather edged panel in the centre of one canvas piece, both right side up, and tack in place along the top and bottom edges.

10 Sew one piece of canvas and lining to one long edge of the zip gusset as before, incorporating the ends of the handles and the top edge of the leather edged panel. Fold the sides of the bag in before stitching the pieces together on either side. Turn the panels out and repeat for the back panel of the bag. You will have a cross shaped piece with all seams enclosed, except for the bottom edges.

11 Pin the neatened sides of each panel, right sides together, and stitch from the corners of the zip gusset down to the bottom edges, with a 5mm seam allowance. With the bag inside out, open the zip.

12 Cut a 12cm x 48cm rectangle from canvas. Pin and stitch the long sides to the long bottom edges of the bag, right sides together. Repeat for the short edges, making small tucks at the corners if necessary.

13 Cut an 11cm x 48cm rectangle of bag stiffener. Wrap a piece of lining fabric around it and tack in place. Place the stiff section into the bottom of the bag, wrong sides together. Pin, tucking the raw edges under the lining. Slip stitch it in place and turn the bag out.

14 Take a 10cm square of soft leather and cut into 5mm strips, stopping 1cm from one edge. Apply glue to the uncut edge and roll up to make a tassel. Place the top of the roll into a decorative cord end finding and attach to the zip with a jump ring.