1 Download the templates from sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. Pin and stitch the darts in the front and back bodice, and the front and back bodice lining. Press the waist darts towards the side edge and the bust darts down. With right sides together and matching the centre notches, sew the front waistband to the front bodice, and the back waistband to the back bodice. Repeat for the lining pieces, then press the seams down.

2 To make the pleats in the front and back skirt, fold along the marked lines, right sides facing; each one should be folded facing towards the side of the skirt, with seven pleats at each side of the centre. Stitch close to the top of the pleats at the waist edge to secure in place, then press the pleats down for the first 5cm. With right sides together, pin the skirts to the bottom of the front and back waistband, matching the centres with the side edges level, then sew in place and press the seam up towards the bodice.

3 Place the top of the zip at the marked notch on the left side seam, then pin and stitch one side of the zip. Pin the other side of the zip in place, making sure the seams of the waistband are level, then sew. Stitch the side seam above the zip, towards the armhole, and neaten the edges. Sew the side seam below the zip and neaten the edges. Secure the bottom of the zip to the seam allowance with a few hand stitches.

4 Pin and sew the other side seam, matching the notches and making sure the seams of the waistband