Tunic

1. For this project you will create four main pieces: upper and lower front, and upper and lower back. Fold your fabric in half with right sides together. Lay your vest on top of it, adhering to the bias of the fabric (see Sew Smart). Using the vest as a rough template, draw around it onto the fabric using dressmaker’s chalk. Start shaping the template by adding a 1.5cm seam allowance to the sides and bottom edge (the neckline and arms will be bias bound so you needn’t add any seam allowance there).

2. Continue to shape this template, which will become the back of the top. To ensure that the back piece will fit correctly, add 5cm to your underarm to underarm back measurement and mark it out onto the fabric, shaping the template to fit. Always triple check your measurements before cutting.

3. Compare the shape you have chalked out to the measurements you took before starting – make sure they line up and adjust accordingly. Cut out the finished back piece, using the symmetrical cutting method explained in the Sew Smart tip above.

4. Use the newly cut back piece as a template for drawing your two front pieces (upper and lower), making sure to work on the bias as before. First, add 5cm (plus seam allowances) to your front bust measurement and mark this out onto the fabric with chalk, shaping the front panel to fit. Take a different colour of chalk and mark your under bust measurement onto the fabric, again shaping it to match.

5. Measure from the top of your shoulder to under your bust, and add seam allowances. This will give you the length of the upper front panel of your tunic. Alter the height of the neckline to suit. Once you are happy with the shape of the upper and lower front panels, cut them out as you did for the back. Use the divide between the upper and lower front panels to divide your back panel into two pieces of equal size – upper and lower.

6. Create darts. To do this, hold the upper front panel up against yourself, wrong side facing outwards. Pin the shoulders of the fabric onto your own shoulders (being careful not to stab yourself) and mark the bust points with pins. Pinch the fabric under the bust points together to make two folded darts, and pin. Mark the darts with chalk on both sides to make a ‘V’, unpin and sew in place using a straight machine stitch.

7. Add the waistband. Place one of the 10cm x 140cm strips of contrasting fabric right sides together with your upper bust panel, lining up along the long edge. Pin it together. The strip may be too long but can be trimmed once you are happy with the placement.

8. Take a second 10cm x 140cm panel and align it along the edge of the upper front