Sewing Pattern

Serena Wool Coat

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As the weather turns cooler, it's time to consider making a new winter coat. If you're short on time or experience however, Amanda Walker's simple design is the perfect project to get you started. As it's made from boiled wool which doesn't fray, there is no need for a lining – plus there are no buttonholes or fastenings to contend with. Use blind hem stitch when attaching the front facings for a professional finish.

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Essentials
  1. Boiled wool, 3.3m (150cm wide)
Sizes
  1. One size (fits 8-16, hanging accordingly to your shape)
Cutting Guide
  1. Back: cut one on the fold
  2. Front: cut one pair
  3. Front facing: cut one pair
  4. Sleeve: cut two on the fold
  5. Pocket: cut two
  6. 1.5cm seam allowance used unless specified otherwise.

    1 Download and print the pattern. Check your bust and hip measurement against the pattern to ensure that it will fit you. Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer all of the markings. Turn the top part of the pockets over along the fold line and stitch both ends down. Clip the corners, then turn the pocket facings back to the wrong side. Fold and press a 1cm seam allowance on the three remaining edges. Pin the pockets in position as marked on the front coat pieces and edge stitch in place.

    2 Lay the front coat pieces on top of each other, right sides together, matching the centre back collar. Tack this seam together and press open. Position the back coat onto the front, matching the shoulder seams. Clip to the dot marked on the front coat to release the neckline – this allows the back-neck and the collar neck to match together. Pin across the shoulders and neckline, matching the centre back neckline to the seam at the back of the collar. Stitch the seam together in one continuous line.

    3 Lay the front facings together, stitch down the centre back of the collar and press the seam open. Pin the facing around the outer edge of the collar and down each front edge, then stitch, starting at the bottom, going up, around the collar, and down to the base of the adjacent front edge. At the bottom edge of each facing, fold up a 3cm hem and stitch across at this point. Clip the corners and turn the facings to the inside of the coat.

    4 Turn under the neck edge of the front facing along the stitching line and hand sew the folded edge to the neckline of the coat. Clip to the dot marked on the pattern so the seam allowance can be turned under and sit along the beginning of the shoulder seams. Position the sleeves at the armholes, matching the notch in the head of the sleeve to the ends of the shoulder seams. Pin, stitch and press the seam allowances.

    5 Turn the coat wrong side out, matching the under sleeves and the side seams together. Pin, then stitch in one continuous seam from the base of the sleeve to the hem of the coat. Press open. Iron the 3cm hems around the base of the sleeves and the coat, pin, then hem by hand. Blind hem stitch the edges of the facing to secure them in place.

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